Original SL-i thread
*****WARNING! These are measurements I took and are not completly accurate. These are only to be used as a guide. I am not responsible for anyone mangling their bumper.
Expect to put a lot of hours into this. I took it slow and I put about 12 hours into finishing everything up.
USDM — JDM fogs
PART 1 — General info
PART 2 — Removing USDM GT bumper
PART 3 — Cutting USDM GT bumper
PART 4 — Bracket & bumper beam modification
PART 5 — Mounting
PART 6 — Wiring
PART 7 — Finished product
-needle nose pliers
-10mm socket and wrench
-wire cutters and crimpers
-16 or less guage wire
-various wiring connections
-Approx 1" 5/16" bolts and nuts
PART 2 — Removing Bumper
Use a flathead screwdriver or needle nose pliers to undo the 4 clips on the top of the grill, then pull out and up. There are two hooks lower on the grill which you have to disengage.
Remove the turn signals by taking out the one screw and then pulling with a bit of force. This gives you access to the 4th bolt on the headlight. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the 4 bolts circled in the picture.
use a 10 mm socket to remove the one screw on each side of the bumper. These are located in front of the wheel well.
Underneath there will be two 10 mm bolts to remove
There are several plastic tabs on the top of the bumper. Use a flathead screwdriver to pop up the center and pull it out if you can (as shown in the picture). This allows for easier removal and reinstallation of the outer piece
There are 4 more tabs located in the middle of the bumper. These will not separate but are easy to remove and install.
The splash guards may or may not be connected to the bumper, but check them out cause they need to be moved for convenience.
Now you are ready to remove the bumper skin! I suggest putting tape all around the foglight holes and on the center of the bumper to avoid scratches. Also lay down some large rags on the floor.
PART 3 — Cutting
Here’s the appoximate area to cut. From top to bottom the measurements are 3.5", 2", 1.5" and then to the bottom corner.
3" and 1 ¾"
Be sure to remove the lip at the bottom of the hole as well. I used the metal tabs on the foglight as a guide to where the foglight would sit against the bumper
PART 4 — Bracket and bumper beam modification
You will need to cut off part of the bracket in order to make it fit on the bumper beam. Cut the parts lined in yellow.
You also need to flatten the bracket out slightly. Two holes need to be drilled. From the 3rd pictures you can see I drilled one of them 3.5" from the right and 2.75" from the bottom. The other is 6.5" from the right and 3" from the bottom. I made my holes slightly larger than my bolts so I had some room to play.
cut the bottom of the bumper beam for extra space for the bracket
Unmodified vs modified
PART 5 — Mounting
The semi horizontal line in drawn on the bracket in a previous picture lines up with the back of the bumper beam. I found this to be the approximate location for the lights to fit in my bumper holes.
With my holes already drilled in the bracket I used a paint marker to mark where to drill on the bumper beam.
underneath bumper beam, inside bumper beam
1" bolts work well to mount the bracket. I also used lock washers in the inside of the bumper beam. I thought I would need the normal washers but turned out I didnt.
PART 6 — Wiring
Heres the basic wiring diagram I used (although I did not use a fuse between the parking light and the switch.
I located the relays next to the battery, so some wires do not have to be very long.
Run 3 wires through the firewall of your car to your switch. I used the hole to the left of the brake system. See this thread
One wire goes to the projector relay, the other wire goes to the side bulb relay, and the third wire you can hook onto any power supply. It determines when the relays will be active (I used the same wire for both switches/relays) I used the parking lights as the power supply, therefor when the car is turned off or the parking lights turned off then the foglights will also be off.
A relay has 4 terminals that each have a number.
30 — 12v fused power supply
85 — ground wire
86 — switch wire
87 — foglight power wire
Power wires to the relay
Ground wires for relays
Relays and fuses.
I used a 15A fuse for the projectors, and a 7.5A fuse for the side bulbs. Amperage = Power divided by Voltage. the projectors are 55w each, and the battery is 12v, so 110/12 = 9.6A, so a 10A fuse would barely do for the projectors.
See either of these threads in order to wire up a stock foglight switch
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showth … ght+switch
PART 7 — FINAL PRODUCT
Thanks to www.sl-i.net and @shazapple @jduldula @Speedwagon
For all the info!